THE Australia Day barbecue is is a tradition probably as old as the country. The first settlers had to light fires and cook their food over an open fire when they landed and it's a tradition that's stayed with us ever since.

In the two centuries since technology has improved and we have absorbed the influences from countries all around the world who have their own take on what makes a barbecue.

But in essence it comes down to flame, steel, food and the skill of the cook. We've gathered a few tips to help with all four essential elements.

1. What to cook on

For ease of use the gas barbecue can't be beaten. But if you're looking to get that rich, smoky flavour into your food, then charcoal is the way to go. And if you're caught short, a few decent sized stones or bricks and a slab of steel plate over a wood fire will do the job. It can be as lo-tech as a shovel blade over a few coals if you're really desperate. On an environmental level, cooking with gas is cleaner and charcoal does emit more carbon monoxide, particulate matter and soot into the atmosphere, contributing to increased pollution and higher concentrations of ground-level ozone.

2. Hot, hotter, hottest

Fire up the barbie early to make sure it sears the food when you drop it on the plate. The heat will also kill the bacteria and it also helps with pre-cooking cleaning if that's needed. Allow 15-25 minutes depending on the temperature you want to reach. Your grill should be 200-230°C for high, 175-200°C for medium-high, 150-175°C for medium and 150-175°C for low heat. No thermometer, keep reading. The searing doesn't trap juices (an old myth) but it does keep the food moise and creates that caramelised flavour we love.

3. No additives please

If you go charcoal, go additive-free, just for you taste buds' sake. Choose additive-free lump charcoal, which is just charred wood, over conventional briquettes, which may contain wood scraps and sawdust as well as coal dust, sodium nitrate, borax and additives like paraffin or lighter fluid. Avoid using lighter fluid as a starter. It releases harmful compounds into the air and could leave a nasty residue on your food. If possible use a charcoal chimney, described later.

4. The brush-off

Your barbie grill or plate is heating up, but there's the evidence of the last meal cooked on it starting to smoke and crisp up. It's the perfect time to grab a long handled wire brush and give the surface a quick one over. Scrape again immediately after use.

5. Essential oil

Even on a clean grill, lean foods may stick when placed directly on the rack. Reduce sticking by oiling your hot grill rack with a vegetable oil-soaked paper towel: hold it with tongs and rub it over the rack. (Do not use cooking spray on a hot grill.) Another trick on a grill plate is a sheet of baking paper over the metal. The grill marks show through on the food and the clean up is a lot less messy.

6. Health tips

Just because you're cooking like a caveman/woman doesn't mean the food safety rules don't apply. The simple tips are avoid cross-contamination by using separate cutting boards, utensils and platters for raw and cooked foods; refrigerate foods while marinating and never baste with the marinating liquid. (Make extra marinade just for basting or boil your marinating liquid first.)

7. Marinating is a must

Marinating does more than infuse food with flavor, it also inhibits the formation of potentially carcinogenic HCAs (heterocyclic amines), which form when grilling muscle meats like poultry, red meat and fish. The stats show marinating can reduce HCA formation by as much as 92% to 99%.

8. Chimney starter

A chimney starter makes starting a charcoal fire a breeze. Just place crumpled paper in the bottom of the chimney, fill it with charcoal and light the paper. In about 20 minutes the coals will be ready to spread evenly in the bottom of the grill - no kindling, no lighter fluid, no perfect pyramid required.

9.  Are we done yet?

The best cooks seem to have an instinct for when the food is cooked, but for the rest of us there's the meat thermometer. It reads the internal temperature of the meat, which is the absolute best guide to food cooked to your taste. The devices come with directions and the temperature scale you'll be looking for.

10. Use grill baskets

Use a grill basket for foods that might fall through the grill rack or are too cumbersome to turn over one by one (vegetables, fish, tofu, fruits, etc.).

11. Handy temperature test

Think you're ready to start cooking, but want to be sure it's hot enough? Here's a quick guide if there's no thermometer handy. Hold your open palm about 12cm above the grill rack; the fire is high if you have to move your hand in two seconds, medium if you have to move your hand in five seconds and low if you have to move your hand in 10 seconds.

12. Tame the flames

The bigger the fire, the bigger the fool. Flare ups on the barbecue are not a macho special effect for the outdoor cook. Flame licked food can taste "off" and cause charring on the outside of the food before the interior is cooked. Worst still it causes carcinogenic PAHs (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons) to form and accumulate on your food. Reduce flare-ups, by choosing lean cuts of meat, trimming excess fat and removing poultry skin. And, keep a squirt bottle of water near the grill to quickly douse any unexpected flare-ups.

13. Give it a rest

Let finished meats rest on a clean platter, tented with foil, for about 10 minutes before carving so juices can redistribute evenly.